The trip to the tallest mountain (Mt Wilhelm) in Papua New Guinea: Secret to experience the language of the heart

When I was in the primary and high schools, I always read and do quizzes on the natural geography of Papua New Guinea. As I recalled now that one of the popular questions I always answer wrongly is, ‘What is the name of the highest mountain in PNG?” Part ‘b’ of the question would read, “what is the height in meters?”  A question that always cost us few marks. It was in grade 8 (1998) in a remote High School on Fergusson Island in Milne Bay Province that I promised to climb the mountain one fine day, after costing me two marks in a geography test. I started my research on this renown mountain since then. My aunt introduced my to her boss (Sister Carolline Apeti) who attempted to climb the mountain in 1978, but never made it to the top due to her health complications along the climb. I did promise her that I will climb to the top for her one fine day.

My High School in Milne Bay Province now a Secondary School..Wesley High School named after Reverend John Wesley.

On the 18^th November 2012, 14 years after the conception of my dream, I set foot on the highest point of PNG 4509, MASL ,7:30 am. A dream come true for me.

The journey started after two weeks of continuous 2 hour daily running and physical exercises. On the 15^th November 2012, me with two of my friends from Chimbu Province left Lae for the highlands of PNG. We took a 4hrs bus ride to Goroka and slept at the beautiful yet affordable Luthran Guest house in the heart of Goroka Town (K70/night). The next day, we continued our journey over the panoramic and scenic Daulo pass into Kundiawa town in Chimbu Province. As a coastal person from the Southern part of PNG, everyone in Kundiawa address me as mero which was very upsetting for me so from time to time I told them to call me by name however it was their way of greeting Southerners from PNG.

 My brother Paul Magua at the door of Goroka Luthran Guest house

 Scenic Daulo pass between Eastern Highlands and Chimbu Province

We took a 2 hour truck ride on an all weathered bumpy road to Gembog, the district in which Mt Wilhelm is situated. The road to Gembog is scary as it traverses through hanging cliffs with fast cascading rivers some hundred meters below and killer hanging rocks several feet above the road. Risky and scary but a rewarding journey, an experience of a life time.

We arrived at Gembog station and stayed over in my local guide’s family home where we were introduced to the principle land owner of the mountain, Mr. Joe Black. We paid Mr. Black a track fee of K10/person and sleep over camp fee along the climb of K80 per night per person. Gembog station is widely known for fresh produce where you can find abundance of raspberries, vegetables, potatoes and other spices. The local people are also very friendly and welcoming.

Me in front of the land cruiser..the cafest vehicle for Gembog road

Mr. Noah (our guide) family posing with the expedition team

 
 On the morning of 17^th November, we left Gembog station for Mr. Blacks Guest house at the Male Lake along the climbing altitude. We walked through pristine montane forests up to moss dominated upper montane region. The feeling of natural purity and explicit serenity was unexplainable. It was an awesome experience that many did not and will not have the opportunity to explore. As we climb higher, the air in the atmosphere became thin and breathing became difficult but the joy of new experiences was the motivating factor behind every weary step. On every turn of the dug out track, you wish the top could just miraculously appear before you. Anyways, we arrived after 5 hours at the lake guest house nestled beside a still icy cold lake full calmness. At this stage, everything you see looks magical and your emotions blend into spiritualism. A place that offers you a natural engineered emotion framed into a picturesque natural – soul captivating formation, something that can not be explained in plain words.

The expedition team posing infront of Mt Wilhelm High School

Paul Mogua and Myself at Cambridge country between Gembog and Lake Camp

Besides lake camp: Bruce Mondo, his niece and myself very tired but excited

Our fellow climbers from Wesleyan Church drinking tea at the lake camp (Mt Hagen)

We rested in the guest house where fellow climbers from the Wesleyan Church of PNG joined us. We bundled up in the 3 little rooms for 10 hrs and started climbing the mountain now dominated by weathered rocks and shrubs at 12 am using headlights.

The climb here was critical and that every new climber has to attentively take heed of the local guide’s instructions. It was a painful moment where your body refuses to take another extra step higher but your soul and spirit give you hope to take that one more step, a torment full one. It became more challenging as the air became thinner and the unopposed high velocity icy winds razed against your poor hurting body. All you need is a miracle from God and indeed my climb was a miracle. Some of our friends gave up and returned to the lake camp, others gave up and can not climbed any further while few of us reached the top of the mountain at day break.

Dawn close to the top..less climbers now

 Upon the sight of the top of Mt Wilhelm, I dropped tears of Joy and victory, again a feeling that can not be explained, it’s the language of the heart and soul. This Journey has taught me a lesson in life, a secret to courage in the face of adversity, a principle of promotion out of calamity and the heart to appreciate nature in the face of greed. Yes there is a reserved source of strength. When your body capacity is drained and the going just seems impossible, it is an absolute truth that you learn to draw from within, the key lies within the depths of your unsearched soul. Yes I have overcome this mountain from deep within, where strength springs forth not from combustion of carbohydrates and oxygen but from the will powered energy sourced from within. The secret can not be told, as it is not defined by the language of the mouth, it can only be experienced as it is an inspiration of the heart and soul.

Me overjoyed at the sight of the top of the Mt Wilhelm at the back ground

Paul and Myself..I have to crawl up to touch the flag put to mark governor general Sir Paulias Matane's visit in 2010

Team Celebrating upon Decent

Magical and mystical Female and Male lake

Pondering my victory..a time of reflection of the inner strenght

The disadvantage of being a rugby forward..you find it hard to go through small holes..hehe..

Beautiful flowers on the way

Our Guide, myself and My brother Steven having boiled corn near Kundiawa town..You can get on the Mt Wilhelm tours to Gembog

You can contact me for advice and direction if you plan to climb the tallest mountain of PNG and discover for yourself the secret of the untapped strength that can overcome anything in life from within you.

Quote from the climb “Iron sharpens iron, nature sharpens nature” Hardy 2012