When
I was in the primary and high schools, I always read and do quizzes on the
natural geography of Papua New Guinea. As I recalled now that one of the popular
questions I always answer wrongly is, ‘What is the name of the highest mountain
in PNG?” Part ‘b’ of the question would read, “what is the height in meters?” A question that always cost us few marks. It
was in grade 8 (1998) in a remote High School on Fergusson Island in Milne Bay
Province that I promised to climb the mountain one fine day, after costing me
two marks in a geography test. I started my research on this renown mountain
since then. My aunt introduced my to her boss (Sister Carolline Apeti) who
attempted to climb the mountain in 1978, but never made it to the top due to
her health complications along the climb. I did promise her that I will climb
to the top for her one fine day.
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| My High School in Milne Bay Province now a Secondary School..Wesley High School named after Reverend John Wesley. |
On
the 18th November 2012, 14 years after the conception of my dream, I
set foot on the highest point of PNG 4509, MASL ,7:30 am. A dream come true for
me.
The
journey started after two weeks of continuous 2 hour daily running and physical
exercises. On the 15th November 2012, me with two of my friends from
Chimbu Province left Lae for the highlands of PNG. We took a 4hrs bus ride to
Goroka and slept at the beautiful yet affordable Luthran Guest house in the
heart of Goroka Town (K70/night). The next day, we continued our journey over
the panoramic and scenic Daulo pass into Kundiawa town in Chimbu Province. As a
coastal person from the Southern part of PNG, everyone in Kundiawa address me
as mero which was very upsetting for me so from time to time I told them to
call me by name however it was their way of greeting Southerners from PNG.
My brother Paul Magua at the door of Goroka Luthran Guest house
Scenic Daulo pass between Eastern Highlands and Chimbu Province
We
took a 2 hour truck ride on an all weathered bumpy road to Gembog, the district
in which Mt Wilhelm is situated. The road to Gembog is scary as it traverses
through hanging cliffs with fast cascading rivers some hundred meters below and
killer hanging rocks several feet above the road. Risky and scary but a
rewarding journey, an experience of a life time.
We
arrived at Gembog station and stayed over in my local guide’s family home where
we were introduced to the principle land owner of the mountain, Mr. Joe Black.
We paid Mr. Black a track fee of K10/person and sleep over camp fee along the
climb of K80 per night per person. Gembog station is widely known for fresh
produce where you can find abundance of raspberries, vegetables, potatoes and other
spices. The local people are also very friendly and welcoming.
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| Me in front of the land cruiser..the cafest vehicle for Gembog road |
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| Mr. Noah (our guide) family posing with the expedition team |
On
the morning of 17
th November, we left Gembog station for Mr. Blacks
Guest house at the Male Lake along the climbing altitude. We walked through pristine
montane forests up to moss dominated upper montane region. The feeling of natural
purity and explicit serenity was unexplainable. It was an awesome experience
that many did not and will not have the opportunity to explore. As we climb
higher, the air in the atmosphere became thin and breathing became difficult
but the joy of new experiences was the motivating factor behind every weary
step. On every turn of the dug out track, you wish the top could just miraculously
appear before you. Anyways, we arrived after 5 hours at the lake guest house
nestled beside a still icy cold lake full calmness. At this stage, everything
you see looks magical and your emotions blend into spiritualism. A place that
offers you a natural engineered emotion framed into a picturesque natural –
soul captivating formation, something that can not be explained in plain words.
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| The expedition team posing infront of Mt Wilhelm High School |
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| Paul Mogua and Myself at Cambridge country between Gembog and Lake Camp |
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| Besides lake camp: Bruce Mondo, his niece and myself very tired but excited |
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| Our fellow climbers from Wesleyan Church drinking tea at the lake camp (Mt Hagen) |
We
rested in the guest house where fellow climbers from the Wesleyan Church of PNG
joined us. We bundled up in the 3 little rooms for 10 hrs and started climbing
the mountain now dominated by weathered rocks and shrubs at 12 am using
headlights.
The
climb here was critical and that every new climber has to attentively take heed
of the local guide’s instructions. It was a painful moment where your body
refuses to take another extra step higher but your soul and spirit give you
hope to take that one more step, a torment full one. It became more
challenging as the air became thinner and the unopposed high velocity icy
winds razed against your poor hurting body. All you need is a miracle from God
and indeed my climb was a miracle. Some of our friends gave up and returned to
the lake camp, others gave up and can not climbed any further while few of us
reached the top of the mountain at day break.
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| Dawn close to the top..less climbers now |
Upon
the sight of the top of Mt Wilhelm, I dropped tears of Joy and victory, again a
feeling that can not be explained, it’s the language of the heart and soul.
This Journey has taught me a lesson in life, a secret to courage in the face
of adversity, a principle of promotion out of calamity and the heart to appreciate nature in the face of greed. Yes there is a reserved
source of strength. When your body capacity is drained and the going just seems
impossible, it is an absolute truth that you learn to draw from within, the key
lies within the depths of your unsearched soul. Yes I have overcome this
mountain from deep within, where strength springs forth not from combustion of
carbohydrates and oxygen but from the will powered energy sourced from within.
The secret can not be told, as it is not defined by the language of the mouth,
it can only be experienced as it is an inspiration of the heart and soul.
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| Me overjoyed at the sight of the top of the Mt Wilhelm at the back ground |
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| Paul and Myself..I have to crawl up to touch the flag put to mark governor general Sir Paulias Matane's visit in 2010 |
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| Team Celebrating upon Decent |
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| Magical and mystical Female and Male lake |
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| Pondering my victory..a time of reflection of the inner strenght |
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| The disadvantage of being a rugby forward..you find it hard to go through small holes..hehe.. |
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| Beautiful flowers on the way |
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| Our Guide, myself and My brother Steven having boiled corn near Kundiawa town..You can get on the Mt Wilhelm tours to Gembog |
You
can contact me for advice and direction if you plan to climb the tallest
mountain of PNG and discover for yourself the secret of the untapped strength that
can overcome anything in life from within you.
Quote
from the climb “Iron sharpens iron, nature sharpens nature” Hardy 2012
